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VINTAGE BEADED BAGS: PURSES
WITH A PAST
By: Ellen Mansoor
Collier
Beautiful beaded bags are a treasure--and pleasure--to have and
to hold. From scenic
Victorian figurals to Egyptian Deco styles, each vintage purse reflects its
unique sense of time and place.
Believe
it or not, vintage purses are hot:
Consider the number of celebrities carrying oh-so-chic period
purses to the Oscars and film openings--not to mention the sky-high
prices at antiques shows and auctions.
Ironically, it was men, not women, who carried the first
"purses"--cloth or leather pouches called "almoniers"
for holding alms---beginning in the 11th century during the Crusades.
By the 14th century, both men and women liked the convenience
of carrying purses, then referred to as pouches or pockets. These
early examples were hand- embroidered or woven using silk
and/or metallic threads on silk, velvet, cotton or linen.
As styles evolved over the centuries, pockets were gradually
added to men's and women's clothing, but by the 18th century, women
alone held the purse strings--literally.
The slim silhouette of the 1790s to 1810s created a new demand
for purses, namely reticules, so-called for their drawstring tops.
Fashionable femmes even constructed matching reticules out of the same
fabric as their gowns.
Since
the 12th century, glassblowers in
Venice--and much later in
Bohemia
and
Germany--
had mastered
the delicate art of making miniscule seed beads or "perles"
for fancy work, but it wasn't until the 19th century that beaded bags
became a must-have fashion accessory. According to Roseanne Ettinger,
author of Handbags, early beaded reticules can
usually be dated by their tulip shapes and three-sectional designs: a
small floral or geometric border near the "header" or top,
with a larger floral or scenic motif in the center, and finished with
a scalloped, floral or saw tooth border and tassel.
Like
fashion design, purses reflected the whims and trends of the times.
From 1820-1860, purse designs grew more elaborate, portraying romantic
scenes, historical settings, and floral themes, reminiscent of oil
paintings. Ladies of
leisure often spent a year or more creating the most intricate
bags--typically knitted or crocheted on cloth with tiny
beads--allowing them to display their artistic skills.
Meanwhile
in France, colorful
cut-steel bags became the rage, but these exquisite hand-loomed bags
weren't available in the
U.S.
until the early
20th century. Sadly, the sheer weight of these heavy metal beads often caused
severe damage around the frames and under the hinges. What's
more, the bright beads may fade or rust over time if exposed to light
and moisture, especially if stored in plastic bags. It's a rare treat to find a
colorful cut-steel bag in minty condition.
When
frames of base and precious metal came into vogue in the early 1800s,
reticules were often reworked to give them a modern look, which can
make them difficult to date. Indeed, a beautiful frame--decorated with
enamel, engraving, faux or real jewels, marcasites, or paste
(rhinestones)--showcases a stunning design, while a plain-Jane frame
can detract from an otherwise pretty purse.
Fanciful
figural bags often tell an intriguing story:
romantic lovers in a pastoral setting, the delightful
"butterfly hunters," or a woman alone, perhaps reading,
staring out at the sea or resting in the garden.
Scenic bags may depict a beloved home or a historical setting,
such as the Taj Mahal, Venetian canals and Bavarian castle purses.
Persian carpet bags also proved popular--using glass or cut-steel
beads--featuring rich colors and a variety of detailed designs.
After
the opening of King Tut's tomb in 1923, Egyptian motifs flooded the
fashion scene--and purses served as the perfect canvas for stylized
pharoahs, sphinxes, scarabs and lotus blossoms. Deco
devotees seek out these striking Egyptian-theme bags, especially those
complemented by matching figural metal or celluloid frames.
Today's
collectors covet intricate scenic, rug or figural purses with
embellished frames in excellent condition--and pay top dollar for the
best bags.
When
buying online, ask all questions in advance regarding condition:
some bags may be lost causes, while many flaws can be remedied by a
skilled restorer (e.g. linings, fringe, frames and minor holes.)
In many cases, a worn and torn bag can be salvaged mainly for the
beads and frame.
The
scarcity and beauty of these unique works of art are what make them so
sought-after and hard to find, not to mention pricey. Still, with a little luck and pluck, you may discover a
genuine gem that calls your name!
Collecting
Tips:
When
considering a beaded purse, collectors should keep these tips in mind:
*Condition:
Is the bag missing fringe or a lining? Are there holes, stains and/or tears in
the beadwork? Is the frame
plain, bent or broken? While
minor damage--such as lining or fringe--can be repaired by a
professional, think twice before buying an ordinary bag with obvious
wear and tear.
*Bead
Size: Are the beads
miniscule or medium? Intricate seed-bead bags command the highest
prices, but are difficult to repair. (Old, worn bags can be recycled
for beads.) Typically,
1920s bags can be characterized by their Deco patterns and larger
beads, but newer models were also created using older beads. New “Victorian-style” bags are easy to spot by their shiny colors,
large beads, synthetic fabric linings, simple patterns--and maker’s
labels!
*Pattern:
Is the bag floral, scenic or figural? How detailed--and thus
difficult to execute--is the design?
Common themes--like peacocks or flowers--are more abundant and
less expensive than bags with unusual scenes, settings or patterns.
*Frames:
Does the frame complement the purse?
Is it in excellent condition? Are all the stones intact and in
good condition, or can they be replaced?
Is it made of precious metals, or signed by a famous maker?
Carved, colorful Deco celluloid frames also command high
prices.
Purses
are often enhanced with a more suitable frame if the size, periods and
styles are a perfect match, but this can be a tricky—and
time-consuming--undertaking! An
attractive frame may work wonders for a resplendent reticule with a
torn header--if it looks original. Keep in mind that authenticity is the
key in all restorations.
*Purse
size: Generally, larger
purses tend to be more valuable than smaller ones.
*Fringe:
Does the fringe enhance--or detract from-- the purse? Bags with lush, perfect fringe are
hard to find.
*Personal
Taste: Last
but not least: Do you love
it? Personal
preference is paramount. If a bag takes your
breath away--and you can afford it--by all means, you may want to
splurge. Chances are good
you may never see one like it again. Enjoy!
Care
and Display:
*It's
best to display beaded bags flat in showcases or on glass shelves,
away from sunlight, heat or humidity.
If placed directly on wood, the acids can damage the fibers
over time—so always display on cloth linens.
Be careful if you decide to hang bags on walls since the weight
can strain the seams and pull the beading away from the frame
(especially heavy cut-steel bags).
A
sturdy or lightweight bag can be safely hung on walls or coat racks in
a climate-controlled area. (Watch out for moths and other
pests!)
A
showcase or display coffee table is ideal for preserving and showing
off these beauties to their best advantage. Tip: Use DampRid or
packets of silica gel to absorb moisture in humid climates, especially
to help prevent rusting of cut-steel beaded bags.
Celluloid frame bags need to be
displayed in well-ventilated areas, away from heat, moisture or
sunlight, since the celluloid can disentegrate and crumble over time.
Vintage bags can also be stored in acid-free tissue and
boxes—but it seems a shame to keep these beauties out of sight.
Many collectors choose to rotate their bags, giving each one a chance
to be seen and admired.
Happy
hunting!
A
different version originally
appeared in COUNTRY HOMES’ ANTIQUES EXTRA Magazine, 2000.
Copyright
by: Ellen Mansoor Collier
**
Mention this article for a 10% discount on any vintage purse!**
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