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Compact
Collectibles: The
Pow(d)er of the Puff
by
Catherine Owsianiecki
It cannot be denied that the little luxury known as the powder
compact has been in serious decline since its heyday in the early
decades of the 20th century.
That sad fact is nowhere better illustrated than in a 1936 New
York Times report of an injury inflicted on Norwegian opera star
Kirsten Flagstad as she sat in the audience of Covent Garden.
The culprit? A
glass powder compact. The
singing sensation “was struck on the head by the compact falling
from the tier above her. Blood
streamed down her face. She
stanched it with her handkerchief as she went backstage, where she
treated by the opera house physician.”
Can we imagine the disposable plastic compact of today wreaking
such havoc or garnering such dramatic reportage?
Not possibly. Even
if a modern-day opera fan would bother to lug the once-indispensable
powder compact to the upper tier, it is unlikely the flimsy thing
would even tousle the magnificent mane of the contemporary diva on
whom it was dropped.
But once upon a time, in the days after World War I--when it
became socially acceptable for women to take up once-taboo practices
like smoking and wearing makeup-- the powder compact was an ornate
feminine necessity made to be flaunted in public so as to inspire
admiration in men and envy in other women.
In fact, powder compacts were so essential that, even in the
lean years of World War II, the shoulder bags of New York policewomen
were built to accommodate cosmetics as well as the service revolver.
But even if the days of women boasting a compact to match every
outfit are long gone, these artifacts of a more gracious age are
experiencing a revival—not in the purses of 21st-century
women, but in the display cases of auction houses, museums, and
private collectors. And
now, Ellen Mansoor Collier of DECODAME (www.deco-dame.com)
in Houston, Texas is here to give vintage makeup mavens the goods on
hot compact collectibles and first-rate care and purchase tips.
CO:
Are there compacts that are hot collectibles right now?
EMC:
Compacts come in all shapes and sizes, so collecting is mainly a
matter of personal preference. Novelty compacts, scenic sterling
Italian compacts and Art Deco enameled or guilloché compacts are
always in demand.
Condition
and rarity are the two most important considerations in starting a
compact collection. If you're lucky, you may find mint- in-box (MIB)
examples of the Volupté “Hand” or the Kigu “Flying
Saucer”--but expect to pay premium prices. If you happen upon
a Dali “Bird-in-Hand” or a circus-theme compact in less than
perfect shape--but the price is right--snap it up!
Many
collectors seek out a certain period or style, such as enameled Art
Deco vanity cases with finger rings and lipsticks or World War II
sweetheart sets and compacts. Hingeco
is a prolific maker of the latter, which are often heart-shaped and
made of sterling.
Since
there are so many varieties of compacts, I'd suggest holding out for
the best available examples of each period or style.
But you can never go wrong if you collect what you like.
CO:
Which makers’ compacts are the most collectible?
EMC:
Volupté offered a "Collectors Series" of compacts that
includes a variety of “Hands,” “Lucky Purses” and boudoir
vanity tables, among others. Coty
designed well-made compacts with intriguing designs like the “Jingle
Bells” and the patriotic "Flying Colors" triple vanity
with lipstick, rouge and powder. And
one of my customers exclusively collects compacts by Flato, an
American designer from Texas known for his whimsical vanity cases and
high-end jewelry.
International
companies also competed in the market with imaginative designs. The
British-based Kigu created the aforementioned "Flying
Saucer" compact in innovative styles, including a musical
version. And the German
maker Schuco designed some of the most novel, and pricey, compacts and
perfumes hidden inside furry monkeys, bears (Beware: the bears are
being reproduced in larger sizes) and especially rare dogs and cats.
But
don’t let the lack of a maker’s mark deter you from purchasing a
vintage compact. Some of
the most sought after pieces are unmarked treasures.
CO:
Are there ways to accurately date vintage compacts?
EMC:
In general, collectors can date compacts by examining sizes, shapes
and materials. Art Deco (1920s-1930s) compacts tend to be smaller and
sleeker and often feature finger rings or tango chains with a lipstick
attached. In the U.S.,
production of celluloid vanities was outlawed in the early 1930s
because cellulose was dangerously flammable during manufacture.
During and after World War II, the scarcity of metal brought
Lucite and other plastic compacts into vogue.
Novelty compacts in such forms as pianos, 8-balls and baskets
became the rage in the late 1940s and 1950s, perhaps to take
peoples’ minds off the ravages of war.
CO:
What care and storage tips would you offer?
Is it all right to use vintage compacts?
EMC:
Compacts are a sturdy lot, but they can be easily dented and bruised
if handled carelessly or too often. If you want to use a vintage
compact, an abundance of inexpensive pieces by Stratton are on the
market, and I believe they're still being made today. But I
would recommend that collectors display more valuable pieces lying
flat on linen-lined shelves or in glass showcases and dust them when
needed. To polish metal
and enamel and to remove tarnish and verdigris, I use a Q-tip dabbed
in either baby or mineral oil.
[Sidebar
begins] Powder Prerequisites
--Courtesy of Ellen Mansoor Collier
of DECODAME (www.deco-dame.com) in Houston, Texas.
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Buy compacts you like in the
best condition you can afford.
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Examine compacts in bright light for dents, dings, chips,
scratches or wear.
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Missing parts or fittings
can take years to replace, but you can buy worn and damaged
compacts for replacement parts and puffs.
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Jewelers often stock thin
1/16" replacement mirrors, but cutting to size is difficult.
A stained glass specialist is your best bet.
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At antique shows or flea
markets, ask vendors to remove price stickers from compacts before
you purchase. This is
especially important at outdoor markets since the sun can melt
price tags into the surface of the compact, leaving irreparable
damage.
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Always get the seller's
receipt or card in case you discover damage later.
If you can't get a refund, try to get an exchange.
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If you buy online, ask about
the seller's return policy.
Reputable dealers generally offer refunds or exchanges,
minus shipping.
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Don't rush to amass an
instant compact collection. Do
your research and comparison-shop.
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Most important, revel in the
hunt! [Sidebar Ends]
**
Mention this article for a 10% discount on any compact!**
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